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Fórum » Only in English » Technologies » PicDither - PicEngrave - PicLaser. (Anything relating to these softwares can be discussed here.)
PicDither - PicEngrave - PicLaser.
tweakie Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-06-23, 06:44 | Üzenet/Post # 1
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Anything relating to - PicDither - PicEngrave - PicLaser etc.
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 09:13 | Üzenet/Post # 581
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Idézet
Thanks Tweakie - I did the test you suggested and Im reading 5v regardless of the mach3 settings. I think I'll do some tests directly on the parallel port and see what I get next.


My apologies Dave, I forgot to mention the resistor fool

Connect a 10K resistor in series with the pin then a 1uF capacitor between the unconnected end of the resistor and GND then measure the voltage across the capacitor. (earlier post corrected for any that follow).

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
dadiy Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 10:18 | Üzenet/Post # 582
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Tweakie do you mean like this?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tordg7f77g2cpg1/PWM%20Monitor%20Circuit.PNG
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 10:46 | Üzenet/Post # 583
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That's it Dave, exactly ok (component values are not critical, just for testing).

Don't connect it to the laser TTL though - this circuit just converts the digital signal to analog voltage.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 16:12 | Üzenet/Post # 584
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This started happening in the middle of a job that was doing real good until the spaces occurred. Now every thing I try has spaces in it and it looks to me like something in my Y axis is messing up. I tried the settings that John suggested and about 20 close to them, with no change, it is still spasmodic in the Y. I am going to switch some stepper drivers around and see if I can move the problem somewhere else.
Thanks
Jerry
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 19:20 | Üzenet/Post # 585
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Jerry,
Chinese drivers?  cry
John


I paint with a blue light beam.

Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by picengraver - Péntek, 2014-05-16, 19:21
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 22:49 | Üzenet/Post # 586
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John
Ya I know! :(Jerry
I have Z, driving Y,  and I'll soon know.


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Honk - Péntek, 2014-05-16, 22:51
 
Doug Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2014-05-16, 23:39 | Üzenet/Post # 587
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Jerry, sorry to hear that you are still having problems.  I had a lot of problems with my build, mostly related to "Chinese".  Had a problem with the driver board, they replaced but still not right.  Scrapped the board and got a Gecko 540 to run the four steppers.  Am getting a little better understanding what affects what.  Today ran a burn of one of my granddaughters.  My burns have been much improved since started reducing power.

John, Jeff - I'm hve been reducing power by reducing A axis (encoder) max depth.  Have the Flexmod set at about 1.9 amp max.  Would it be best to leave at 1.9 amp max and reduce power with PEP max depth or reduce value of max amps (say 1.6 amps) for 5 volt range?  Or does it make any difference?

Csatolások/Attachments: 3583141.jpg(196Kb)
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2014-05-17, 01:00 | Üzenet/Post # 588
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Doug,
Excellent.  I know your granddaughter will love it.

Changing power either way will make no difference in engraving as PEP is setup to calculate 256 shades (0 to 255) between set min and max depth settings, regardless of values entered.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2014-05-17, 20:50 | Üzenet/Post # 589
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Well I just do not know!
This all of a sudden, in the middle of the burn, started making white lines. It will do this no matter what settings in Mach3 or PEP, Pixel Resolution, Speed, Velocity or Acceleration this picture is at 100 Velocity Acceleration 30, .010 Pixel Resolution, 60 IPM, -0.0001 Axis depth, one vertical, one horizontal, Analog Laser, 40W C02 laser. After it is done with the cut Zero the starting point is moved in X + and - in Y. I have changed stepper drivers Twice (one unused), one new stepper motors, all drive motors are in coaxial cable, tried a different Computer, Mach3 tried two screens, I Increased holding power on the Steppers, and changed the steps three times per 38.000, 1.600, and 2.000 at it now, I do not seem to have any binding on the axis's. I DO NOT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO CHECK ? Any one have an idea? Photo shows top and bottom ends blown up. The bands in photo are 1 inch X 12 inch. Little Johns checker thing.
Thanks Jerry
By the way Doug Real Nice!

Csatolások/Attachments: 6874095.jpg(108Kb)


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Honk - Szombat, 2014-05-17, 21:01
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2014-05-17, 22:18 | Üzenet/Post # 590
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Jerry,
It appears obvious to me that you have a problem with your Y axis.  I don't see a shift in the X axis, but maybe I'm missing it.
Try doing the test again at a speed of 10 ipm.  I know that's slow and that it will burn dark, but we're only checking to see if Y shifts.

I suspect that you may have a mechanical problem.  Shaft coupler or pulley slipping, or even a belt jumping timing.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2014-05-18, 13:17 | Üzenet/Post # 591
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John
    I tried that at 10 ipm. and it did the same thing. I also took the Y axis apart and cleaned it again the same thing.
    But I did find something goofy and I am not sure if it has anything to do with anything. There are three settings in Mach 3 that were changed and I am not sure where they should be set. In Config., General Config., there are settings: Distance Mode - Absolute - Inc., IJ Mode - Absolute - Inc. and Shuttle Wheel Settings, Shuttle Accel. ( in seconds ). When I mess with them things change but I am not sure where they should be set.
    When I was working with BobCad ( about a week before ) wanting to set up for Laser with the Plasma settings I used G90, G90.1 and G91.1 in the text editor. Also some other changes were made to start and stop the laser. They worked good and so did the laser. I didn't know that if you add a G90 it would change Mach3 in General Config. Distance and IJ Modes and you need to go back and change them back. Also, again, I don't know why this stuff keeps going to pot and I would be a lot easier if I just had a clue what I am doing. I am sure thankful you are all there. THANKS ! biggrin
Jerry
 
JJWMACHINECO Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2014-05-18, 14:12 | Üzenet/Post # 592
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There has been allot of talk about Chinese components and since I'm in the manufacturing business, I myself have only a couple of Chinese tools in my machine shop that are used very little. It makes sick to even walk around in a Harbor Freight store looking at the low quality tools there. I'm a firm believer that to do a professional job it requires professional tools! However with that being said, when it comes to our hobby work, I don't want to spend allot of coin doing it.

I did this engraving on my mini which is 97% Chinese made. The other 3% items are what we made our-self, the encoder, belts & pulleys, electrical box, the electric to power it and MAYBE the Flexmod & LD. Also, the good ole excellent/reliable USA program PicEngrave Pro 4 + Laser we use. thumb

Here is the BOB and the 4 axis stepper drivers we use and you can't get any cheaper or Chinesier then this. biggrin It has been a very reliable system and it may be we are just lucky is why. There has been an occasional intermittent connection, but it always was something we have done in our wiring.

http://www.amazon.com/SainSma....cnc+kit

We had to replace the original Chinese BOB and drivers several months ago to this one only because my son accidentally shorted it out. He forgot to power it down when doing some rewiring on it. facepalm

45IPM, 30% FRC, 45% Left, .007" PR, .0000" min, -.0256 max and even though she is one sharp lady already, I sharpened her to 20 more. laugh

Jeff

Csatolások/Attachments: 0382141.jpg(95Kb)


Extensivly Re-worked/Re-designed/Modified Servo K2CNC KG-3925 and the Mini Laser Engraver

Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by JJWMACHINECO - Vasárnap, 2014-05-18, 21:41
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2014-05-19, 00:36 | Üzenet/Post # 593
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I' am not sure but I think Lizzy the Laser is going again. The problem is I am not to sure what fixed it. I think it is Mach3 Distance and IJ Mode settings but if it does it again, 10 hrs. into the next job, I'll turn it into a extra large tool box or something. Oh well it needed a good tune-up.
Thanks Jerry
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2014-05-19, 02:46 | Üzenet/Post # 594
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Keeping my fingers crossed again, Jerry.
*********************************
Jeff, I don't think I would classify SainSmart in with the Chinese eBay controllers others seem to have a lot of trouble with.   SainSmart seems to be higher quality from what little I've seen of their products.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
dadiy Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2014-05-22, 11:02 | Üzenet/Post # 595
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Thought I'd post a little update.  My Kalecnc 808nm 2 watt laser appears to be working quite well.   So far I've been able to do simple black and white stuff without problem.  The PWM to TTL is now working (although it turned out to be opposite to the settings supplied).

I tried to do a greyscale test but the settings were wrong and I burnt through on the black.  Seems with piclaser it does lots of small moves and I think the acceleration settings in mach3 are slowing it down to about 70mm per min.  Need to have a fiddle with that.

For the sample pyrography attached I was running the last at 50% power and about 500 mm a min.





Csatolások/Attachments: 1490604.jpg(91Kb) · 5367821.jpg(64Kb) · 7431100.jpg(95Kb) · 1432598.jpg(59Kb) · 1982409.jpg(105Kb)
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2014-05-22, 11:47 | Üzenet/Post # 596
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Nice work Dave - I am pleased the laser is working OK. ok

Tweakie.


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Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2014-05-24, 20:42 | Üzenet/Post # 597
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    This is with the DAC (Montana Black Powder)Its still in need of fine tuning, but it's burning, Un Cross Your Fingers for a while. I slowed the feed rate down about another 10% in Mach3. Poplar wood 20 1/2 X 18 1/2 in. Screen shot of the settings, any suggestions? thanks
    The top picture (Lehrkind Mansion) is with the C02. That little Logo you were helping me with came out real good. Also Poplar 26 1/2 X 25 in. Dithered with TTL
Thanks for looking
Jerry
Csatolások/Attachments: 0014395.jpg(271Kb) · 6616245.jpg(112Kb) · 5930061.jpg(250Kb)
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2014-05-24, 23:53 | Üzenet/Post # 598
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Congratulations Jerry,
It looks like you have things working well now.  You and Jeff both really need to have your work displayed in an art gallery with high $ tags on them.  yes

John

Hozzáadva (2014-05-24, 23:53)
---------------------------------------------
Dave,
I'm glad to see you posting.  Looks like the Kale is working well for you.  I don't have any experience with the 808 diode, but I believe there are some here on the forum who do. Maybe they will pop in with some advice.

PicLaser Lite, PicEngrave Pro, and all raster image engraving software all engrave pixel to pixel one at a time, and it does slow things dooooooooown.  sad   Reducing power is about all that can be done to compensate for that.
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2014-05-29, 03:04 | Üzenet/Post # 599
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Is this possible?
My son wants a picture of a trout in the glass of a garage door, I told him I would play with it to see. The fish will probably be about 18 to 20 Inches. Can I do it?
I thought of cutting some masking tape to beed blast but that's old school. maybe use the laser to cut the masking tape ? Oh I just don't know.
Thanks Jerry
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2014-05-29, 09:08 | Üzenet/Post # 600
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With your CO2...
You can dither the image then etch the glass but you may need to make some practice runs to get the settings just right. smile

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
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