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Fórum » Only in English » Technologies » CO2 Lasers. (Anything relating to CO2 Lasers can be discussed here.)
CO2 Lasers.
picengraver Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2013-06-10, 21:05 | Üzenet/Post # 161
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Rob,
Assign the pin you use for Laser Z control to Output 1 in Ports and Pins.  Then where you use Z.01 to turn off your laser, use M10P1, and to turn it on, replace Z-.01 with M11P1.  Both M commands must be immediately followed by an axis command before they trigger.  I used a dummy command "G0 Z0".  You might not need the dummy command, depending on how CamBam outputs your code, but it assures positive triggering.  I don't use CamBam, so can't help with a PP mod for it.

You can use another Output (Output 2) if you wish, just change the P1 for P2 in the commands.

Hope I remember this right - I don't use the commands now with my analog setup.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2013-06-10, 22:02 | Üzenet/Post # 162
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Ok so I have my M3 and M5 replaced in my post processor...

Edit: I think I found where my Post goes. I'll do some testing...

Thanks John!

Hozzáadva (2013-06-10, 22:02)
---------------------------------------------
Some solid vector fill on glass:

Csatolások/Attachments: 9365434.jpg(55Kb)


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Muk - Hétfő, 2013-06-10, 21:20
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2013-06-10, 22:22 | Üzenet/Post # 163
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Looks good!
Dave
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-06-11, 07:04 | Üzenet/Post # 164
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Very nice work with the glass Rob. cool

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-06-11, 16:32 | Üzenet/Post # 165
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I know it's not some jaw dropping raster art...but I've been fighting to get a nice, clean, sharp vector fill on glass for a couple weeks now without looking icky. Finally got it cool

I'll do some raster stuff here soon, I picked up some smashed mirrors to test on.
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 01:32 | Üzenet/Post # 166
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I've been looking at the stuff on http://www.lasertile.com/ - anyone here who's used any? After reading about their laser glass, I decided to make a test run on a piece of window glass in the junkbox. Painted one site with flat white krylon rattle can, rastered an image on the painted side, then painted that side flat black. Need to try more colors or see what home depot has for colored glass tile.
Dave

Csatolások/Attachments: 5670691.jpg(47Kb)
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 01:36 | Üzenet/Post # 167
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Holy crap that looks good! Very clever! Just because that's a tad confusing...you painted one side white, rastered on White side, then painted the back side black for contrast?

I'll be testing some out on a computer case here tomorrow. I'll post a result tomorrow.
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 01:55 | Üzenet/Post # 168
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Thanks for the kind words! Yes, cleaned the glass, painted one side white, lasered that same side with a halftoned image (which burned off the white paint and etched into the glass), then painted that same side black to fill in the burned off areas.
I bet a black coating first, then laser, then some silver paint might look pretty good too if a negative image was used. Gotta get some more glass to play with. biggrin
Dave


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Dave - Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 01:59
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 02:57 | Üzenet/Post # 169
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Hang on...let me get this straight.

You took a sheet of glass. Painted it. Etched it. Then painted the same side again? I don't get how it made that wild contrast if you are just covering everything like that...>.>

Speaking of finding glass, I just found a lovely ellipse shaped glass while I was out. Now I gotta find an image to fill it.
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 03:35 | Üzenet/Post # 170
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Yes, Painted it white, lasered a dithered image onto the painted side. This burns away all of the dithered 'dots' but leaves a white background. At this point, if you view it from the non-painted side, most is still white paint, with etched glass exposed where all the dots were. A coat of black applied to the painted and lasered side will fill in the burned away dither-dots with black (and also cover the white paint that's left). You view the finished engraving from the non-painted, non-lasered side where you can see the white that wasn't burned off (the background color)as well as the now black painted dither-dots (foreground color). 
This is the same idea as lasering a mirror from the back side then painting the back side black.
 
Looks like home-depot carries 4"x4"x0.25" colored glass tiles for close to 3 bucks each, so barring shipping costs the laser tile place is cheaper at about $2.50 for a 6x6 colered glass tile with a laserable enamel coating on the back. Still have to paint-fill the lasered image on the back or perhaps alternatively just back light it.
It also looks like there's a way in coreldraw to overlay a grid pattern on the image and then print each grid separately, but I haven't chased that enough to know if it's really possible. If so, it might make some interesting trays/trivets if inlaid into a wooden backing or box lid. Pictures are on the back side of the tile, so won't wear off from setting stuff on it. Like this example: http://www.lasertile.com/category/giveaway
 
Dave
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 04:40 | Üzenet/Post # 171
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wacko I didn't realize until now, that the view was through the back of the glass. Of course, that makes sense! I need me a nap I think, losing it here.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-13, 20:27 | Üzenet/Post # 172
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Dave,
Now you are really starting run ahead of us.  Plain glass - neat.  I'll just have to try that one with an LD.
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-06-14, 00:41 | Üzenet/Post # 173
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Thanks John, You might need to experiment with the background color to find something that burns easily with the blue LD. I think you had luck with black krylon spray for circuit boards, so maybe black background and white foreground? With 45 watts and the IR wavelength, mine pretty much burns right through the paint and fries the glass. Same results on mirror tiles, through the paint, metallic coating, and into the glass. Thinking of getting a box of lasertile or laserglass to try it out, but not right away I think.
Dave
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-06-19, 15:32 | Üzenet/Post # 174
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John
I had a big blowup last night, I hope someone will be able to give me a hand with it? Two things.
First:
I had a very large program in PEP4, I planed to shut it off to finish it tomorrow. I went to get the line number so I would have a place to start (mach3) and there are none. Can the line numbers be turned back on?
Second:
So I let it run all night. I checked it every couple of hrs. and it was doing great about 11 Hrs. and about 2 inches from the end, It STOPED Ouch!! Windows had little box on the screen Windows is shutting down and my computer locked up. I had to force a stop.
Maybe it got to hot??? O could there be something to turn off in Window that might help with this??? ( About an Hr. before I recieved a download from Microsoft and it wanted to restart my computer. I clicked later. It went away.)
I plan to re-run this as the bottom came out real good. Your program is GREAT. I know this belongs in the forum some where, where it is about Routers, but I couldnt figure out where. Also I'm Getting my laser tube today, It might not be to long untill I'll be wearing out my welcome with other questions.
Thanks
Jerry


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Honk - Szerda, 2013-06-19, 15:40
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-06-19, 17:04 | Üzenet/Post # 175
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Hi Jerry,
Sorry, but line numbers will not be possible in PEP without a major editing of the source code.  I have chosen to not include them because they make the file size very much larger, and they are easy to display in Mach3 anyway.  In Mach3 line numbers will display by simple double clicking on the code window after a file is loaded.  Do this before you run the code so as to not risk interrupting a running file.

Your windows lockup sounds like a Windows Update problem.  It is strongly advised that you turn off auto Windows update, and don't run CNC machines with a computer connected to the internet.  Win Update will not sense that you are running a critical program, and it will restart your computer on its schedule.  There is nothing that Mach3 or PEP can do to prevent this.

Hope this helps,
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Muk Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-06-20, 23:51 | Üzenet/Post # 176
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Since I can't make a new topic...I'll put this in here. This is my new vacuum table I built, thought you guys might get a kick out of it.

So, I talked with a welder friend of mine on how to approach this, I had suggested that I'll need metal on both bottom and top plates when the laser goes through a vacuum hole, it will just hit metal below. Good enough...Now the cost was roughly $40 for the two plates. You could have them cut to size (mine was 20" x 24"). Then you decide how you want to put in your supports and spacers. I opted for a square 1" tubing frame to make it more durable and no chance of compression or warp so that it will be much more 'straight' then if I was using wood since I'm not terribly good with wood.

The supports are also set to be inbetween the 1" hole gaps and to provide support to stop a sag in the center.

I didn't take a picture of the plate before I drilled all the holes in it, but it's just a sheet of steel, so your not missing anything. Also, I ran a bead of silicone along the entire inner perimeter to make it nice and airtight.

For the screws, I used self tapping metal screws. You want to make sure the holes in your top plate are slightly larger then the screws since the self tappers will just thread the top place and will creep up the plate when you go to tighten it (making it a real pain). I also drilled out the surface so that the heads were flush and wouldn't interfere with the cutting surface or material.

Compressor used, Thomas 2650. Easily rebuilt, 25,000 hour average lifespan, capable of 140 l/min of air flow, 100+ PSI max pressure and 27.9 Hg Vacuum if the tube is on the other side. I use 1 for my air assist and 1 for my vacuum table =)



This piece here is the nipple to connect the compressor. It's a 3/8" fitting, but you basically just pick one that will suit your compressor tubing.



Another view of all the holes. The top plate was measure so that I accounted for the 1" square tubing, then a 1" space before starting the grid. Then the grid was made with a hole every 1" intersection using a 1/8" HSS drill bit. I bought a 6 pack (you can see in the early picture) since it's easy to break them from pushing too hard. Give yourself a couple days and a heck of a lot of patience...it was friggin time consuming.



Here's a closeup after the drill holes were reamed clean so that no material would get damaged from the surface.



Here it is painted nicely to seal up the potential of rust (since it's steel and not aluminum, it needs paint inside and out).



With the painted top plate in place for show.



Preparing the silicone seal for when the metal screws tighten it up. I didn't trust a straight metal on metal surface to make a clean enough seal, so adding silicone will fix that.



Here it is after being all tightened up and getting ready to cure overnight. I used self tapping "tech" screws for this part.



And here it is hooked up to my compressor for a test toast. Worked like a charm! Very hard to pull my MDF loose when it was running...very impressed.

Csatolások/Attachments: 5946986.jpg(85Kb) · 8688137.jpg(61Kb) · 9209066.jpg(81Kb) · 9825629.jpg(63Kb) · 7878958.jpg(34Kb) · 6866111.jpg(61Kb) · 0483699.jpg(63Kb) · 6446590.jpg(91Kb) · 3139645.jpg(52Kb) · 0112273.jpg(93Kb)
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-06-21, 12:02 | Üzenet/Post # 177
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Nice work Muk - a vacuum table to be proud of ok

Just a thought - OK for engraving jobs but not so good for through cutting (vacuum is reduced, soot is sucked into pump, beam reflections liable to spoil underside of the work etc.).

Tweakie.


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Muk Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-06-21, 13:32 | Üzenet/Post # 178
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Ahead of you Tweakie wink

Got an inline soot filter (I always put in compressor filters, my test setup there was just a quick and dirty), there has been no loss in vacuum because the air assist & vacuum table are equal terms of air in/air out (tested).

Now the big one is seeing how the 'splash' from the reflection will be. I haven't done enough cutting yet to be definitive on that point.


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Muk - Péntek, 2013-06-21, 13:33
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-06-22, 03:28 | Üzenet/Post # 179
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John
Thanks for the help. I got the picture to go through and it made it this time, I thought you might like to see it. This is a Picture of Elling Morris Mill in Pony Montana. A gold mining town. It ran 12 hrs. I knew that counter did that for line numbers, in Mach3 but I never thought of doing it like that.




I recieved my laser today and started trying to figure out how to get the invisiable bright little light beam to come out of the small hole.

Thanks
Jerry
Csatolások/Attachments: 2897028.jpg(78Kb) · 2945996.jpg(127Kb) · 8224166.jpg(176Kb)


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Honk - Szombat, 2013-06-22, 03:37
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-06-22, 13:06 | Üzenet/Post # 180
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Excellent engraving Jerry - my congrats.

Idézet
I recieved my laser today and started trying to figure out how to get the invisiable bright little light beam to come out of the small hole.


biggrin biggrin biggrin

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
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