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Fórum » Only in English » Technologies » CO2 Lasers. (Anything relating to CO2 Lasers can be discussed here.)
CO2 Lasers.
Honk Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-19, 16:15 | Üzenet/Post # 61
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Tweakie

Thanks for the input. I was considering using shop air and regulate it to about 30 PSI and run that through an extra flow meter I had from an old TIG torch. I have a pressure switch to put in line for a safety for the power supply. I am also putting a safety on the door and a flow switch for the H2O. I have installed a bathroom ceiling fan for exhaust and I am planning to attach that to the shop vacuum for sawdust.

I am not sure if I want the exhaust to be mixed with the sawdust but I should be able to reroute the smoke before the filter and outside.

I really do appreciate your input. A lot of this has come from something you have put into one of the Forums. The building I enjoy, the tec. stuff gets me all mixed up in the head. But there is nothing so difficult that it can not be overcome by brute strength and ignorance.
Thanks for all your help.
Jerry (Honk)

Hozzáadva (2013-02-19, 16:15)
---------------------------------------------
I can't write to the forum what I think it should say, or something.
How do you correct what the forum writes after it writes it wrong?
Jerry


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by Honk - Kedd, 2013-02-19, 16:26
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-19, 16:33 | Üzenet/Post # 62
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Hi Jerry,

A lot of things worked with a laser produce sparks and possibly smouldering particles so it may be unwise to mix your laser exhaust with a woodworking extractor system as, in my opinion, this could be a serious fire risk.

Shop air can contain water and oil (which could easily damage the focus lens) so it is best not to use it co-axially with the beam but for it to have it’s own separate nozzle, directed towards the kerf. An inline moisture separator / filter, such as used in a paint spray shop, could be used but they are expensive to buy and to run. To avoid this problem I use an ‘oil-less’ compressor but it has limited volume so would not really be suitable for use when cutting thick wood, MDF etc.

Everything is a compromise. smile

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-19, 16:43 | Üzenet/Post # 63
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Hozzáadva (2013-02-19, 16:15) ---------------------------------------------
I can't write to the forum what I think it should say, or something.
How do you correct what the forum writes after it writes it wrong?
Jerry

Clicking on the [bb]box helps me when composing the message (but I am still learning this new system).

The >>EDIT<< button should allow you to make corrections to existing posts.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 04:01 | Üzenet/Post # 64
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Tweakie
Thanks again I'll have to make some adjustments for my air system but I ran into another oops. on the system I have it running in some real tight spaces, but we will get it!

Thanks
Jerry

Hozzáadva (2013-02-24, 03:41)
---------------------------------------------
Tweakie
    I have ordered a compressor, Oil-less but it is 30 PSI and I hope this will be sufficient.  Thanks for the input. I am building the nozzle and I plan on the air line to exit on above and below the lens I am going to add another line for a nozzle at 45 degs like I have seen on one of your threads. I am real confused about which lens as there are different focal lengths. I read your thread about lenses I didn't see anything about that. Also there are quite a few different dia. linses. Do you have any recommendations?
    Also I found out how to read what was written in the threads before there translated. If I hover above the text in the thread it will show what was written before translation and I can fallow the text with the mouse. I like it.
Thanks again Jerry (Honk)

Hozzáadva (2013-02-24, 04:01)
---------------------------------------------
Oh no! Now it won't do my hover trick. I must have turned something off. But it did write what I wrote.
Thank you
Jerry

 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 11:43 | Üzenet/Post # 65
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Hi Jerry,

If you are going to use an oil-less air supply then I think it is better to have a co-axial feed towards the work (as attached diagram). This keeps the lens cool and prevents particles / vapours from the work getting onto the lens. My nozzle exit diameter is 3mm which is probably about right but some use a smaller diameter exit.

The lens diameter will depend on the size (wattage) of your laser tube and the size (dimension) of your machine.
The beam from a laser tube has divergence and just for example my 40 Watt tube produces a beam diameter (at the furthest distance of the machine travel) of <5mm so I use a 12mm diameter lens.

The lens focal length depends of what you want to use the machine for.
A short focal length lens produces a smaller focussed spot size but the convergence / divergence is greater so the depth of field is shorter.
A long focal length lens produces a larger spot size but the convergence / divergence is less so the depth of field is greater (see attached diagram).

Just as a guide…
A short focal length lens is best for engraving (finer detail).
A long focal length lens is best for cutting (straighter sides to the cut).

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

Csatolások/Attachments: 6159573.jpg(27Kb)


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-26, 05:00 | Üzenet/Post # 66
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Tweakie
Thanks , That just what I needed.
Jerry

Hozzáadva (2013-02-26, 05:00)
---------------------------------------------
Tweakie
Is there a way to run Microkinetics MillMaster Pro MN400 With Mach3 Rather then MillMaster Pro? I Tried to post it on the page with Mach3 but it wouldn't let me?
Thanks
Jerry (Honk)

 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-26, 10:13 | Üzenet/Post # 67
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Tweakie
Is there a way to run Microkinetics MillMaster Pro MN400 With Mach3 Rather then MillMaster Pro?
Thanks
Jerry (Honk)


Hi Jerry,

To my knowledge nobody has actually done this.

I believe that the Microkenetics drivers are not compatible with Mach3 and the alternative would be to replace them with Gecko's (or similar) and possibly the power supply would also need replacing so it is virtually like building a new system anyway.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-03-03, 05:50 | Üzenet/Post # 68
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Tweakiedxc dTweakie
Tweakie
I recieved the pump I ordered today and it is quite small. I was wondering if you might know how big is needed for a 40 W laser. The pump is 400 L H . I was going to see if it will even register my flow switch ??
Thank you
Jerry
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-03-03, 09:02 | Üzenet/Post # 69
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Hi Jerry,

I think ‘flow rate’ is something that you will probably just have to ‘try and see’ whilst monitoring the temperature of the coolant in your reservoir.
The volume within the tube and cooling jackets is small so the flow rate does not need to be great but, depending on your local ambient air temperature, you may possibly need to use an active cooling system (chiller) to prevent temperature rise.
Here in the UK it is not really a problem (I don’t know about Montana) so I just cool my tube to the ambient air temperature (using a forced air radiator) but others, who demand maximum cutting power, use a proprietary water chiller in the cooling circuit.

From experimentation…
It has been demonstrated that maximum output power from a glass tube will be achieved at a temperature of 8 deg.C. However, cooling to this temp. is not without its’ problems – dependant on relative humidity, condensation can occur on the tube and if this forms on the output coupler this could lead to disaster and early failure.
At the other end of the scale performance starts to fall off rapidly at tube temperatures above 25 deg.C. so this is perhaps the max. temperature range you should be aiming to work within.

I thought long and hard about my cooling circuit http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/cool.jpg and eventually decided to fit the flow switch directly after the pump in order to minimise the water pressure within the tube itself. I have since removed the filter as it has been shown to be unnecessary (and it saves a maintenance inspection job).
Overall this system has served me well with no noticeable water temperature rise above ambient during normal and prolonged use but there again, I have never found the need to run my tube at power levels greater than about 85%.

Hope this helps,

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
JJWMACHINECO Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-03-06, 12:25 | Üzenet/Post # 70
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Idézet (Honk)
I can't write to the forum what I think it should say, or something. How do you correct what the forum writes after it writes it wrong?
Jerry


Turn off any Hungarian language translators. It will then read just like you typed it in so you don't have to keep trying to edit it. The translator will change your wording around. I ran into this problem when I started here also until I figured out it was the Google translator doing it.

Jeff


Extensivly Re-worked/Re-designed/Modified Servo K2CNC KG-3925 and the Mini Laser Engraver
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-03-09, 05:09 | Üzenet/Post # 71
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Tweakie
I Recieved my lense today and started setting up my torch. The lense is a 12 X 50.8 which I think would be the diameter and the length of focus. When I convert 50.8 to inches I come up with 2 in. My tip to the lense is 1.5 in. which gives me about 1/2 of an inch between the tip and the work. But when I shine a light through the tube the focus point is almost at the tip and the focus point is about 1/4 inch (the size of the dot at the tip). I was thinking about re-arranging the lense to have more space below the tip. Do you think this is something I should be worring about? Also what would be a good dimention to try to get between the focus point and the end of the tip?
Thank you
Jerry
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-03-09, 07:54 | Üzenet/Post # 72
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Hi Jerry,

In order to visually see the point of focus you should use a visible light source with a small divergence such as a HeNe or laser pointer set to infinity focus etc.

I have no idea what the best distance between the nozzle and work surface should be. I have a distance of 6mm and this seems to work just fine so I have never tried changing it.

Just a couple of notes on lenses in general...

Plano/convex lenses should be fitted with the convex side towards the laser source.
ZincSelenide lenses, in particular, are relatively fragile and should always be handled with great care.
When cleaning, follow the recommendations for camera lenses (take great care not to damage the AR coating).
Never touch a lens with fingers, always use suitable gloves.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-03-29, 10:08 | Üzenet/Post # 73
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Returning to the ceramic tiles - I have been asked to do a few laser’d tiles for a friend (non-commercial work).

Following a bit of experimentation, it was evident that pen and ink line drawings (which use hatching to create the illusion of shade) produce better results than the pencil sketch drawings and this is the result of one of the tests which I thought I would share.

(I should point out that I have no rights to use this particular image. It was solely used as a test and this tile was destroyed after the photo was taken).

Tweakie.

Csatolások/Attachments: 4955896.jpg(60Kb) · 8425671.jpg(43Kb)


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
JJWMACHINECO Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-03-29, 13:13 | Üzenet/Post # 74
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Tweakie,

You may already have this link, but these are for education and we are all still learning here.  biggrin

http://etc.usf.edu/clipart/sitemap/sitemap.php

Jeff


Extensivly Re-worked/Re-designed/Modified Servo K2CNC KG-3925 and the Mini Laser Engraver
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-03-29, 13:22 | Üzenet/Post # 75
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A Big thanks Jeff, I had not seen that site, looks like some wonderful stuff there to try. ok

Tweakie.


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csewe Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2013-03-29, 18:12 | Üzenet/Post # 76
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tweakie,

You just did an excellent job making.
Congratulations

Zoli


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by csewe - Péntek, 2013-03-29, 19:23
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-04-06, 20:43 | Üzenet/Post # 77
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Tweakie
I just recieved my new 40w laser and power supply from China and I am having a little problem trying to know where to put the wires. I have been in contact by Email with the supplier, with this problem, but her English and my Chinese arn't quite as close as they need to be. The make and model of this unit is: Professional Power Supply, PS-CO2-40W. and the labeling is not what is on anything else. I would really hope to wire it so the smoke can't get out. I have the laser power and 220v power figured out also where to put a 10K pot. but there are two pins labeled K+and K-, Two pins D+ and D-, and 4 pins labled 24, GND, 5V and L that have me wondering. I know there for the safety, the test and the power on for the laser but I am at a loss as what to do. Can you or anyone else that might be able to give me a hand, help me out. Here is a copy of the drawing I had them translate. It helped some but???
Thank you
Jerry Honkanen

Csatolások/Attachments: 7165889.jpg(29Kb)
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-04-07, 09:12 | Üzenet/Post # 78
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Hi Jerry,

My opinion…

With CO2 laser power supplies, in general, the laser trigger input usually has internal pull-up to +5 Volts and this pin is activated TTL (Low) so it is reasonable to expect that this pin would be next to a +5 Volts pin. I would choose the ‘signal’ pin as my TTL(L) laser trigger.

My next assumption would be that the ‘Laser switch’ pins need to be closed circuit and form the door, flow sensor, interlock, etc., safety circuits.

I agree with you that the pot connects between ‘GND’ and ‘+5 Volts’ with it’s wiper connected to the ‘IN’ pin.

Obviously ‘Red wire’ connects to tube positive.

Tube negative is a bit more obscure as they are saying that you should have a series ballast resistance (these are usually high wattage, wire wound’s bolted to the machine’s metal casing and in partial flow of the PSU cooling fan).

I think ‘Test’ is self explanatory and would normally be open circuit.

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
Honk Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-04-13, 22:31 | Üzenet/Post # 79
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Tweakie

I have been overwhelmed with way to much laser CNC technology and I am starting to have a meltdown. I use BobCad for most of my graphics but now with the laser I think a different program is something I will need. There are many of them but I am not sure what I should do. If  TTL low is able to turn on the laser through the program and the program I am using to run my machine is Mill Master Pro from Microkinetics with Mighty Drive and Motion Controller NM400E and is only able to use 4 axis’s (which I am planning to use X, Y, Z and A for programing). I am trying to figure out how to turn the laser off and on through the program? There is no © drive but there are outputs for speed and direction on the spindle. Also a built in relay for coolant pump and an auxiliary I think all are controlled through G codes. I am really tempted to rewire the whole thing to use Mach3 as there is a lot more information available on how to make this work. I have talked to Microkinetics but they don’t know how either, but there going to get back to me next week sometime. If you have any suggestions they will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Jerry Honkanen

 
csewe Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-04-14, 05:14 | Üzenet/Post # 80
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Hi Honk.

Perhaps searching for it.
http://hobbycncart.com/publ....-1-0-29
 
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