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Fórum » Only in English » Technologies » Diode Lasers. (Using Diode Lasers with CNC Machines.)
Diode Lasers.
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-20, 18:47 | Üzenet/Post # 441
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Thanks Jeff, for the new material source - artists canvas.  Burns very nicely.

Lasered at .007 inch resoution - 6 x 8 inches.  Coated with clear lacquer for protection.

John

Csatolások/Attachments: 0904125.jpg(92Kb)


I paint with a blue light beam.

Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by picengraver - Szerda, 2013-02-20, 18:58
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-20, 19:06 | Üzenet/Post # 442
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picengraver
 
Very nice work.
I envy you.
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-20, 19:07 | Üzenet/Post # 443
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Hey guys
I made my program.
Grayscale out of feedrate.
First test.
Zolibá tested 1W laser.
Better raw material is needed.
I ask that you write down the secret of good materials.
The raw material preparation, and type.
 
Csatolások/Attachments: 9510157.jpg(136Kb)
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-20, 19:39 | Üzenet/Post # 444
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Thank you, csewe.

It looks like you have made a good beginning with your laser.

It also looks like you have used a piece of red oak.  Please correct me if I am wrong.  You should get better results if you can use a light colored wood, like Baltic Birch plywood or other clear grained wood.  Some hardware grade plywood has a very light colored back side that may burn well, too

Another cheaper material you might try is what is called card stock here in the US, similar to that used for manilla file folders.  It is very good to practice with.  I haven't tried it yet, but I think some picture frame mat may burn well, too.

Best Regards,
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-20, 20:01 | Üzenet/Post # 445
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picengraver
 
The card stock is a good idea to practice.
The  my laser machine is about to be finished, and then be testing.

Thank you.
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Csütörtök, 2013-02-21, 13:51 | Üzenet/Post # 446
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Excellent work John. cool

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-02-23, 01:24 | Üzenet/Post # 447
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Thank you, Tweakie.  I think a lot of credit needs to go to Jeff for his pioneering efforts in laser engraving.

After two months of searching, I have finally been successful in obtaining some two-part wood bleach, and today I have bleached the natural color out of some small plywood test panels.  Tomorrow I will laser some images to see if it is worth using for laser engraving images.

This project is another prompted by Jeff a while back about obtaining a white surface for laser engraving.

For those who don't know, a two-part wood bleach is a very strong solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic), which is applied to the wood first with a sponge and allowed to soak in for 5 to 10 minutes.  Then while the wood is still wet, a 35% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied, also with a sponge.  Allowed to set until dry, the wood surface will turn almost white.  Some woods require two separate applications.  This two-part bleach process is far more effective than using the more common oxalic acid wood bleach.

It used to be commonly available to furniture re-finishers here in the US, but hazmat shipping regulations now make it too expensive/difficult for most dealers to stock in their stores.

As with all strong chemicals, common sense care must be taken in its use, but it is not difficult or overly dangerous to apply.

More later,
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
Dave Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-02-23, 05:40 | Üzenet/Post # 448
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I wonder if the liquid chlorine (14% calcium hypochlorite solution) commonly used to treat swimming pools would do the same. It's pretty strong stuff and instantly bleaches clothing or wooden decks if spilled. (don't ask how I know that) wacko
 
Dave
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-02-23, 06:36 | Üzenet/Post # 449
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Dave,
Chlorine is good for bleaching lots of stains, but it will not bleach out natural wood color, only some wood stains.  The same goes for oxalic acid, which is commonly used to bleach such stains as water rings from finished furniture.

I'm no chemist, but it is the interaction between the caustic and peroxide that is required to remove wood color.

Peroxide is a strong oxidizer.  If spilled on flammable material, such as a rag, and allowed to evaporate, it can set the rag on fire.  In a former life, I developed a peroxide spray application system for large scale sterilizing of glass containers for food packaging.  I used only 10% peroxide for the sprayers, and please don't ask how learned it can start fires.

Always rinse all rags and paper towels with lots of water before disposal if they have been contaminated with peroxide.  And wear rubber gloves.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.

Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by picengraver - Szombat, 2013-02-23, 06:37
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2013-02-23, 08:00 | Üzenet/Post # 450
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Hi Guys,

Just a heads-up…

We are already aware of the dangers associated with laser working materials containing PVC with the released Chlorine and it’s ability to combine with moisture in the air to create a form of Hydrochloric Acid but we would probably need to be chemists to work out all the other nasty combinations of chemicals.
Please take care and use suitable fume extraction when applying the laser to bleached or chemically treated materials.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 02:40 | Üzenet/Post # 451
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Thanks Tweakie - completely agree.

I tried some bleached wood today with surprising results.

Same gcode used for all three images, but some settings changed.

BTW, the subject is Sergeant Alvin C. York, A WW1 US hero.

All wood is the same, and at .007 resolution, laser output code.

#1 is the original image.

#2 is untreated ply - at 45 imp, .4 amps minimum and 1.6 amps maximum diode current. 

#3 is same as #1 except at 35 ipm.

#4 is bleached wood, at 45 ipm , .425 amp min., and 1.0 amps max.  It is the second bleached one I did.  The first was way too dark at 35 ipm so I aborted it.

Obviously I need to experiment more with power setting to see if I can get better results.  I am surprised at how easily the bleached wood burned.  I had expected it would burn similar to unbleached, but it seems more like the artist canvas.

John

Sergeant Alvin C. York (December 13, 1887 – September 2, 1964) was from Tennessee and was awarded the Medal of Honor by the US for his heroic actions in France.  A famous movie was made of his life in 1941, staring Gary Cooper.







Csatolások/Attachments: 3123130.jpg(214Kb) · 7748247.jpg(181Kb) · 1829551.jpg(176Kb) · 4438841.jpg(183Kb)


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 06:13 | Üzenet/Post # 452
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picengraver
 
Very good results.
How many watt diode made.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 15:07 | Üzenet/Post # 453
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Thank you.  I am not sure of the actual output power of my diode, but it is supposed to be 1 to 1.5 watts at maximum current, but I have no way to verify this.

John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2013-02-24, 20:16 | Üzenet/Post # 454
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picengraver
 
The 1.6 amps does not destroy the diode?
We diode 1 watt amps we maximun 1.2.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2013-02-25, 02:54 | Üzenet/Post # 455
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csewe,

It has a lot of time running at 1.6 amps, so it may be a 2 watt diode.  I don't know how to tell, and I am not interested in pushing it higher as more power is not needed now.

John

Hozzáadva (2013-02-25, 02:54)
---------------------------------------------
Well, I am disappointed, but it appears that bleached wood will not be usable for laser diode gray scale image burning.  No matter what I tried, the wood would only burn either black, or not at all.  No gray shades.  I dropped my max. diode current, in stages, down as far as .8 amps. from 1.6 amps, with no improvement.  With minimum amps set to .4  to .5 amps, just below burn start, results were still the same.  I even tried staining after bleaching with a light color (blond oak) oil stain with no luck.

Perhaps dithered images and TTL will work with bleached wood.  I'll try later.

Apparently bleaching not only removes color from wood, but it also changes the wood itself in some other way. perhaps by removing/reducing moisture (which, as I write this, suggests yet another experiment :)).

It's been an interesting experiment, but I think further experimenting would be futile, so I will move on to some other issues I want to work on.

Regards All,
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
csewe Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2013-02-25, 12:07 | Üzenet/Post # 456
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picengraver,

 
Too bad you failed the test.
That was a good idea.
 
Appears to be better absorbed by the infrared light.
This will bring good news of <= 1W laser are.
Easier to burn the wood.


Az üzenetet módosította/Modified by csewe - Hétfő, 2013-02-25, 12:08
 
KisKZ Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-26, 14:47 | Üzenet/Post # 457
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Dear My friends!

I need some help in a project.
Only some information missing.

We are want to design a new combiner laser supply for 1-3-5W (switchable). It's now near finish, but I have problem with trusted electrical parameters of laser diodes.

Anybody have trusted information about the following data for 1, 3, 5W laser diodes?:

-operating voltage (I think it is 2-2,3V)
-treshold current
-operating current.

I have lot of information, but these are include lot of variations, different values.

If I want to desing a fix, not adjustable, but switchable (with dip switches) suply, I need stable, trusted datas.

Can anybody help me?

Thank you and have a nice day!

Peter
 
tweakie Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-26, 17:40 | Üzenet/Post # 458
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Hi Peter,

Not much help really but I think you would need to check the laser diode manufacturer’s datasheet to establish the recommended operating parameters and absolute maximum current for the particular device (part number). This is probably the only way in which you could be certain without resorting to ‘trial and error’.

Jeff, Dave and John have much more experience with using diode laser so I am sure they will have more useful information.

Tweakie.


Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
 
KisKZ Dátum/Date: Kedd, 2013-02-26, 22:17 | Üzenet/Post # 459
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Idézet (tweakie)
I think you would need to check the laser diode manufacturer’s datasheet to establish the recommended operating parameters and absolute maximum current for the particular device (part number)
Thank you tweakie!

I did it in last days, but the result is ...... not so helpfull.
For example, if I check one type (for example 3W, TO3 mounting, with FAC lenses) from more places, I have different values.
The bigger problem, I did not found the end of chain. Only suppliers, not manufacturers.

Now I tried to connect with two big laser component supplier, and try to get more information.
I hope they can help me.
One of this (Lasercomponents Gmbh) was help in the past in impulse laser diode thema.
I have some 90W impulse laser diodes from they, but without impulse supply. smile I can not do nothing with these withput impulse supply electronics.
I hope now I will receive all nessesary informations in this new thema.

Somebody know something about impulse laser supplies????
Maybe we can do something with these diodes.
 
picengraver Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2013-02-27, 02:04 | Üzenet/Post # 460
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Peter,
I would surely help with your project if I knew enough, but I barely know a little about my one 445 diode.

If you are not aware of this forum, please check it out as there is a lot of good (along with a lot of not so good) information and experienced diode users : www.laserpointerforums.com

Wishing You Success,
John


I paint with a blue light beam.
 
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