Diode Lasers. - Oldal 2

Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2012-01-14, 09:17 | Üzenet/Post # 21

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Quote (tweakie)

1inch rice biggrin biggrin

Bigger problem will the color. The white color of rice for me.
Maybe need use some pain before burning.

(I will try to find any special GIANT rice) smile

Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2012-01-14, 09:51 | Üzenet/Post # 22

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Quote

Bigger problem will the color. The white color of rice for me.

Hi KisKZ,

Fill the engraving (wipe over) with black boot polish (or similar) and wipe off surplus. wink

Tweakie.

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Szombat, 2012-01-14, 09:54 | Üzenet/Post # 23

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Quote (tweakie)

Fill the engraving (wipe over) with black boot polish (or similar) and wipe off surplus

Yes yes!
I will do it.

Thank you!

Dátum/Date: Vasárnap, 2012-01-15, 22:05 | Üzenet/Post # 24

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Hello Tweakie!

I need your help! Please give me your hands!

Can you tell me a good solution for find optimal exact focus point of laser?

Please help us!

Thank you!

Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2012-01-16, 08:52 | Üzenet/Post # 25

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Hi KisKZ,

The method I use with a CO2 laser is to set up a small piece of black anodized aluminium as shown in the diagram below then laser a line across the metal plate. The correct focal distance can be measured between the point at which the line is thinnest and a suitable point on the lens assembly. If an acrylic gauge is now made to this dimension it can then be used to set the correct focal distance for any subsequent thickness of work material.

This works because the wavelength of the CO2 laser will ablate the dye layer within the anodized coating but I don't think this will work with a laser at 808nm wavelength so I will try a couple of different ideas and report back with some other suggestions.

Tweakie.

Csatolások/Attachments: 3718408.jpg(13Kb)

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2012-01-16, 10:04 | Üzenet/Post # 26

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Hi KisKZ,

I have just tried the line method on some MDF and the thinning of the line is not easily distinguishable on wood so this will not work.
Another method is to make a ‘dot’ move the focus and position, make another dot and so on.
With my machine the ‘point of focus’ moves with my Z Axis and the ‘burn time’ can be set by the federate so this GCode will produce some ‘dots’. In theory the smallest ‘dot’ will be at the correct focal distance and this method does seem to work. (b1 turns my laser on and b0 turns it off).

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

Code

%
f200
g1b1
g1b0
g0x10
z2
g1b1
g1b0
g0x20
z4
g1b1
g1b0
g0x30
z6
g1b1
g1b0
g0x0 z0
m30
%

Csatolások/Attachments: 5514470.jpg(59Kb)

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Hétfő, 2012-01-16, 10:17 | Üzenet/Post # 27

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Quote (tweakie)

I have just tried the line method on some MDF and the thinning of the line is not easily distinguishable on wood so this will not work.
Another method is to make a ‘dot’ move the focus and position, make another dot and so on.
With my machine the ‘point of focus’ moves with my Z Axis and the ‘burn time’ can be set by the federate so this GCode will produce some ‘dots’. In theory the smallest ‘dot’ will be at the correct focal distance and this method does seem to work. (b1 turns my laser on and b0 turns it off).

Hello tweakie!
This method is see like good.
I will try it at weekend. Then I will inform you about result.
The good thing: Only one time need measure focus distance, then we will use it.

Thank you!

Peter

Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2012-01-27, 15:25 | Üzenet/Post # 28

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Hi Guys,

I have been following the forum laser project with great interest and decided to join in so have just made my own PCB from the same layout.
I use an ‘isolation routing’ technique for simple boards because it is a very quick and clean method and is ideally suited to prototype or one-off work.
If anyone else, who does not have one of the official PCB boards, also wants to join in and make their own board I have posted my GCode here. It is made with a 30 degree engraving point, the holes are marked but not drilled through (all my engraving stuff is done on a vacuum table and drilling through holes is not good) these have to be drilled manually.

All I have to do now is source the components, laser body, lens and diode. cool

Tweakie.

Csatolások/Attachments: 0042821.jpg(58Kb)

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Péntek, 2012-01-27, 18:04 | Üzenet/Post # 29

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tweakie,

Hello Tweakie!

Very nice boards! I'm prefer this isolated version of boards! I like it.
Do not need remove too much material and the result is abloultely same like on other board.

Thank you for your shared work!

I hope lot of users will build it and will test possibilities with this power level.

If you can, please share all of our and your test result in English in this topic!

Have a nice day!
Peter

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 16:43 | Üzenet/Post # 30

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Hi Guys,

I don’t know if we have talked about this before but we should all avoid cutting or engraving anything containing PVC with a laser.

The PVC, when vaporised, releases Chlorine Gas which in turn combines with moisture in the air (H2O) to create a form of Hydrochloric Acid. Not only is this toxic and harmful to inhale it also settles / condenses on machine parts. The effect may not be immediately apparent but after 7 to 10 days, any steel parts (that have been exposed to the gas) will start to show signs of corrosion and once this process has started is almost impossible to stop.

There is a simple test which can be used to establish if an unknown material contains PVC by placing a small sample on a piece of copper wire and burning in a gas flame then noting the colour of the resulting flame – If it is green then that is Chlorine Gas and the material should be avoided.

The test process is shown in this, rather comical, video.

Tweakie.

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 17:28 | Üzenet/Post # 31

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tweakie, it is very useful info, Thank You for sharing!
I did not understand exactly what material is at 2'06 what is conains PVC. What is it?
I will translate this for the Others to know about.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 17:37 | Üzenet/Post # 32

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Sziasztok!
A fenti hozzászólásában Tweakie egy fontos információt közöl a lézer és a műanyagok kapcsolatáról:

Néhány műanyag tartalmazhat PVC-t, ami az elpárolgása során klórgázt fejleszt, ami a levegő nedvességtartalmával együtt egyfajta sósavat alkot.
Nem csak a belégzése veszélyes és mérgező, de lecsapódik a gépalkatrészeken is. A hatás nem azonnali, de attól függően hogy mennyi gáz érintkezett az acél alkatrészekkel 7-10 nap múlva már a korrózió jelei mutatkoznak, ami ha megindult szinte lehetetlen megállítani.

A hsz-ben linkelve van egy rövid videó, ahol bemutatják hogyan tesztelhető egy műanyag PVC tartalma. Egy felforrósítorr rézdrótra kell helyezni egy kevés műanyagot és a lángba tartani. A zöld színű láng mutatja a PVC jelenlétét, az ilyen anyagok lézerezése nem ajánlott.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 17:48 | Üzenet/Post # 33

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Hi Amator,

Thank you for translating. It is a good that everyone is aware of this potential problem.

Quote

I Did not Understand Exactly what material is what is at 2'06 conains PVC. What is it?

In the video I think he was referring to 'Moleskine' which is an American book product which has a nice 'soft feel' cover which he demonstrates does contain PVC.

Tweakie.

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 17:53 | Üzenet/Post # 34

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tweakie, Amatőr,

Thank you for this info!

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-02-01, 19:58 | Üzenet/Post # 35

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Quote (tweakie)

he was referring to 'Moleskine'

It doesn't sound known to Me, but I think chemical industries are making many different materials with many fantasy names all around the world, so it is better to be watchful.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-03-21, 09:38 | Üzenet/Post # 36

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Hi Guys,

I came across this thread on the Vectric forum which has some interesting information regarding diode laser control with Mach3.

Vectric

I don't think PhotoVCarve produces any better results than DotG but, just out of curiosity, I will give it a try.

Tweakie.

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

picengraver

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-03-21, 14:06 | Üzenet/Post # 37

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I thought I would share my latest project - making printed circuit boards with a laser diode. I still am experimenting, but want to share my procedure and maybe get some suggestions for improvement.

I drew the circuit in CAD, and used Cut2D to convert it to gcode for my laser diode machine. I'm still using the C direction pin to fire the laser as I can not get M10/M11 to work properly for some unknown reason with my setup.

To make the board, I first spray paint it with a light coat of Krylon Fusion satin black paint and allow it to dry/cure for about one hour or more.

I then burn the circuit pattern onto the board with Mach3 at about 5 inches/minute velocity.

After burning, I wash the board with soap and water, and then rub the board with fine steel wool. If the traces are not completely clear of paint or carbon, I then use a small brass wire brush.

When the traces are showing shiny copper, I then etch with ferric chloride solution for about 10 to 15 minutes. Final step is to remove remaining paint with lacquer thinner and manually drill the holes.

Improvments still under development include finding a better paint/masking material that will burn easier with the laser, and modifying the gcode to etch the copper from the hole locations completely.

John Champlain
www.picengrave.com

Csatolások/Attachments: 8055319.jpg(288Kb)

I paint with a blue light beam.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-03-21, 16:26 | Üzenet/Post # 38

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Hi John,

Excellent little circuit board. cool

Sorry to hear that you are having troubles with the M11P1/M10P1.
These commands, in themselves, do nothing unless they are followed by an axis movement as they are only executed co-incident with the movement – for example to draw a 40mm square, with the centre being the origin, the code could look something like this;

F300
G0
X-20 Y-20
M11P1
G1
X20
Y20
X-20
Y-20
M10P1
G0
X0 Y0
M30
%

Hope this helps.

Tweakie.

Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.

Dátum/Date: Szerda, 2012-03-21, 17:11 | Üzenet/Post # 39

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picengraver, nice work, and useful description, Thank You!